Several forum members reached out and asked what options are available for bypassing an EC200 propulsion control failure to get the boat home if they don't have an alternate powertrain onboard. The topic seemed like a good one to address in this thread also.
First, it's helpful to keep in mind that the core of the EC200 is not the control heads, but the rather the Power Commander control box usually located in the engine room. Each control head is directly connected to the control box via its own 8-wire cable (or a pair of 8-wire for a twin-engine configuration). The control heads do not directly interact with throttle or shift actuation, but only send their control requests to the control box.
So, if 're experiencing a control anomaly, start by checking to see if a different control station can operate normally. If so, then carry on with that station. If not, then the control box is indeed malfunctioning.
If your transmission is mechanically actuated then the temporary solution is crude-but-simple: Disconnect the Morse cable at either the transmission end or the Power Commander box and have your first or second mate (or galley slave) man the gear shift lever in the engine room as required for gear changes.
If your transmission is electronically actuated, then you can prepare a backup shift control ahead of time to be ready to handle primary shift control failure either by use a simple three-wire cable and double-throw switch, or by buying and installing a cheap industrial crane type wireless remote control connected directly to your transmission's shift solenoids.
For the wire cable method: 1) Connect one wire to a battery voltage source matching your control box's system voltage (probably 24v), and connect the other end of that wire to the center post of your switch; 2) Connect the second wire to one end post of that switch, and the other end of that wire to the Red wire of the Forward solenoid on the transmission; 3) Connect the third wire to the opposite end post on the switch, and the other end of that wire to the White wire on the Reverse solenoid on the transmission; 4) Secure that switch to the side of your helm control head or another safe location so that when the switch is in the middle neutral position it applies no voltage to either shift solenoid, but when flipped to its forward position system voltage is applied to the Forward shift solenoid, and likewise for Reverse position.
For the wireless controller method, do essentially the same as above, but wire the power input into the wireless receiver box, and its two button control outputs to the signal wires leading to the Red and White solenoid inputs. Keep the wireless transmitter at or near your helm and powered off until needed. You don't want anyone surprising you (and maybe blowing out the clutches of your transmission) by activating that transmitter and playing with the buttons while you're underway!
Usually EC200 failures start with shift failures, and then sometimes later progress to throttle control failure, so you'll probably be able to manage throttle settings from your control head(s) to safely get home. But, if your throttle function also fails and is electronically-controlled by variable voltage signal (typical for Cummins and JD engines), then you can rig a simple throttle bypass control by use of a simple potentiometer jumpered between the G and A pins on the J6 connector of the control box. That potentiometer will take voltage input from the ECU at the G pin, and needs to be able to deliver 0.5-4.5v output connecting to the A pin. It's important that the output voltage is limited to 4.5v max which signals wide open throttle (4.05v for Cummins), so be careful when turning up throttle, and maybe consider getting a voltage reducer with potentiometer that will not output in excess of that limit.
Alternately, or if an EC200 throttle failure besieges you before you've had a chance to get your project supplies, you can achieve a workable cruise throttle setting with a AA battery, a few short pieces of wire, and some duct tape (or bubble gum). Jumper the positive end of the battery to the J6-A pin, and the negative end to the H pin. Depending on the state of charge of that battery and which throttle range your engine's ECU is configured for, you should get a throttle response around 1100-1300rpm. Pull off either wire from that little battery and your throttle immediately returns to idle.
It's not elegant, but it works - except not for CAT engines - which respond only to PWM signals, and not for MTU or MAN engines - which respond to mA signals (and let's not even get started talking about Volvo throttle signals).
I hope this information will help ease some concerns, and maybe spare someone a big towing bill at some point. There's no need to feel like you have to rush out and replace your EC200 system tomorrow... maybe next week or the week after. 😉
Happy cruising!
Jim Martyn
Alyeska 47-07